Alterations the Seams Easy Way
by
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CHAPTER 2
SLACKS AND PANTS
If pants need to be shortened fold them under with the bottom edge at the correct length. Pin hem up to that length using 4 pins distributed around pant leg or more to hold hem up so a good visual can be taken. Most pants are altered straight across. I have found that the center back length is the most accurate one since no shoe is in the way of it laying flat. Sometimes customers request pants to be shorter in front than in the back, this is usually to have less fabric break in the front as it hits the top of the shoe. I have found that a ½” slant works well in most slacks to accommodate this. From time to time customers will request more of a break, or a no break look on the front of the pant leg. Sometimes it works fine, other times it results in a hem that does not lay flat. Letting out the side seams in the hem may alleviate some of this. Another solution may be to put a slit on the outseam at the hem area. If desired see slit directions.
If pants need to be lengthened, measure the amount from the original bottom of the hem to length the customer desires. Place a pin horizontally that measurement above the original bottom of the hem. Then place a pin vertically at the same spot to form a cross. This means pants are to be lengthened, not shortened. If able you can place a finish line pin below the existing finish line and omit the crossed pins. This will be less confusing and may eliminate a mistake. Perhaps you could put the cross pins in at the fitting and when customer has taken garment off you can measure the amount to be lengthened and move it to the amount below the existing finish line on the inside of pant leg in the hem. The finish line pin should stay in garment until the item is done and being pressed as a safety check when altering. Interruptions happen and it is a good reminder of where the finish line should be.
MENS PLAIN BOTTOM SLACKS
1 Put pin at finish line at each place pants are pinned under if length is to be averaged. Average pins. Place one pin that amount at finish line. Remove other pins. If center back pin is the most accurate one and pants are to be shortened straight across put a pin at the folded edge of the pinned up hem at center back. This is your finish line pin.
2 Cut off 2 ¼” longer than finish line or amount of original hem. If leg is tapered, hem should be small enough to lay smooth. Most dress pants are cut straight enough at the bottom of the leg to be able to do this. If not enough fabric is available for this size hem make as the manufacturer has done or as wide as you can. If pants are tapered this may not work, the seams can be let out through the hem if desired so a wider hem may be used. To do this start at desired length finish line and let out through the hem in the side seams matching hem width to pant leg above the desired finish line.
3 Serge cut edge of slacks turning seams towards back of slacks or as original.
4 Pin up 2 ¼” hem for men’s slacks, lining up side seams and center front and center back crease lines so hem lays flat. Blindstitch at inside of serging (about ¼” from serged edge. Do a quality check to be sure all stitches catch and that they are not too deep. I found that if you adjust the stitch to where it is not catching on all stitches and then adjust just a little until they are all caught you are in the right depth. After stitching a quarter of way around hem, check blindstitching depth, if okay continue to end. Overlap stitching an inch or two. When cutting thread, be sure to cut in the loop so it will not pull out if pulled on. Check stitch depth on entire next leg to be sure it remains consistent. A good quality hem may need to be done more than once to make sure stitch depth is the correct adjustment.
5 Press from inside first and then from top only using enough pressure to lay hem flat.
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Book Details
About the Book
Do you have sewing knowledge, but find yourself nervous about attempting alterations? Have you done some alterations with less-than-successful results?
Learn effective alteration methods that work from Susan Martinek, who brings twenty-eight years of experience with her Seams Easy alteration shop. Alterations the Seams Easy Way includes one hundred illustrations that provide business tips, common alterations, fitting tips, and pressing tips. Each type of alteration is explained in detail, including slacks alteration directions with length adjustment. She also explains how to make correct waist and thigh alterations, along with other common types of alterations:
• Jeans alterations, including shortening, methods for reattaching the original hem, taking the waist and seat in, working with belt loops, tapering, front pocket replacement, and patches
• Shirt alterations, including shortening sleeves, tapering at sides, narrowing blouse shoulders, changing t-shirt necklines, and shortening t-shirt hemlines
• Suit jacket alterations, including shortening sleeves, lengthening coat sleeves, and taking jacket sides in
• Zipper replacements in coats, jeans, coat liners, unlined fleece jackets or sweatshirts, and invisible zipper directions, along with how to shorten a zipper.
All of this and more makes Alterations the Seams Easy Way an excellent guide for anyone interested in making alterations.
Book Review
The review is from Steve Silver, at Sew true
"If you, like many of our customers, want to save money with DIY alterations, but have achieved less than desirable results, this is the book for you. I recommend that you carefully study the methods provided by the author, Susan Martinek, an experienced alterations shop owner, and use her proven methods for success."
"The book provides many details and color pictures, demonstrating how to perform step by step everyday alterations to pants, jeans, suit jackets, etc. Also included are detailed instructions to replace zippers, hooks and eyes, shirt buttons ......... everything that an alterations expert needs to know. You’ll also find recommendations for the tools needed to set up a professional shop, as well as a recommended price list for common services."
"One of the better books I've seen, updated for current times, and presented coherently."
http://www.alterseamseasyway.com/
About the Author
Susan Martinek began sewing as a child when she was a member of a 4-H club. She worked in a retail department store doing alterations for ten years and has operated her own alteration shop for over seventeen years. She lives in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, with her husband.